Great Lakes Canoe Expedition 2007-2009

What's Next?

2009-09-04T20:58:00.001-04:00

After our arrival into Kingston, which marked the end of our Great Lakes Canoeing Expedition, many friends, family and supporters have asked us, “So ... What’s next?” Looking forward to hearing about more adventures, we have been asked if we will continue our route along the American coastline or if we would follow the St. Lawrence and paddle to the sea - all very tempting journeys that we hope to consider in the future.

Although it seems that we have completed our journey, it is far from over. We have learned so much about the Great Lakes over the past 4,000 kilometers and we are passionate to talk to fellow North Americans about the Great Lakes and our journey.

Our hope is to educate and create heightened awareness about the health of the Great Lake's ecosystem through film. So, although we may have to put our paddles down for now to secure some support for video production, we are very much looking forward to the spring and getting back on the water, wherever that may lead.

Seeking the Shelter of a Twisting Bay

2009-09-02T20:56:00.001-04:00

At the tip Presqu’ile Provincial Park there is a tall white lighthouse that leads mariners from the open lake into the sheltered waters of Presqu’ile Bay. It was strange to be rounding this point because this was the last time we would be on unsheltered Lake Ontario.

We were about to take a historic route that was carved through the land to provide ships safe passage through the Murray Canal into the Bay of Quinte, thereby avoiding the treacherous waters of the eastern end of Lake Ontario.

Small victories are encouraging as we work toward a goal that has been far on the horizon for 3 years. The remarkably straight course of the Murray Canal delivered us into Trenton. Over the next few days we enjoyed the Bay and shared the waters with a multitude of other boaters as there was a fishing tournament that weekend.

The shelter we expected to find was elusive as the winds that funnel and create interesting sailing conditions often made our progress difficult but the scenery and our sense of impending conclusion drew us forward to see what was around the next bend of the twisting bay.

Journey into the Big Smoke

2009-09-01T20:35:00.001-04:00

The old saying that, "you can only truly appreciate what you have until you don’t have it anymore" held true for us as we paddled towards the growing Toronto skyline. We missed the solitude and serenity of the wilderness. As we approached the largest city in Canada and one of the busiest ports on the Great Lakes, we were undoubtedly overwhelmed.

Instead of otters, moose and eagles we were now sharing our surroundings with pleasure craft, commercial ferries and ships and...airplanes. The Toronto Island airport was directly to our right as we passed through the western gap into Toronto Harbour, where there is a sizeable section of the harbour that is marked with large white buoys marked with flashy no trespassing warnings.

Being curious, Jon steered the canoe straight toward the no trespassing signs, snuffing my cautions to stay well clear. "What are they going to do? Arrest us!" Jon scoffed at the signs.

Just then, a plane approached the island airport and swooped in near the water surrounding the buoys. Realizing the significance of the buoys, we stayed well clear and as we later found out, if you enter into the restricted zone the water police are dispatched immediately and boater are fined $4,000 with a chance of imprisonment! A pretty serious consequence for the sake of a few paddle strokes.

It turns out that if any vessel is spotted within that area no plane can take off or land creating a jam on the ground and causing planes to circle in the sky above! Needless to say this is one time it was definitely better to play it safe.

Updates Soon!

2009-08-12T15:25:00.003-04:00

The end of our journey has been quite a busy time. We have recently been on the Weather Network and we have just completed two interviews with CBC radio in Northern Ontario - Points North in Sudbury and Voyage North in Thunder Bay. I will post more updates and important post-trip information very shortly. Please check back soon.

Target Practice

2009-08-12T15:23:00.001-04:00

Canoe trips have a way of creating adventure for those who dare to pick up a paddle. Often, we can imagine the experiences that will send adrenaline pumping through our veins. Paddling alongside moving freighters, navigating through rough seas and negotiating through heavy boat traffic were all predictable sources of uneasy excitement for us this summer. But nothing was more unexpected and terrifying than hearing the sound of bullets being fired in our direction.

I ducked as the guns fired in unison unleashing a dreadful “Pow-ppp-pow” sound. We were paddling with our friend, Dave Patterson, and with a glance towards the shore, we noticed that we were approaching a Canadian Forces Firing Range past Grimsby on Lake Ontario. Target practice was being held onshore, too far away for us to see, but we did notice that they were aiming towards a towering berm that was built at the base of the shoreline. Yellow buoys marked, into the distant horizon, a large caution area for mariners to avoid when the firing range is in use. It was windy and the waves were building so together we decided it would be safer to sprint 200 meters through the buoys instead of paddling 2 kilometers out into the building seas of Lake Ontario to cross over. Besides, we were in Kevlar boats (don’t they make bullet proof vests out of the stuff?) and the large berm would protect us. For the moment, the firing ceased and we knew this was our chance. We built up our courage and started to sprint towards the buoys when another fearsome round of “pow-pppp-pow-pow” knocked some common sense into us. Deciding not to be a moving target, we headed towards shore. A guardsman informed us that we would have to paddle around the buoys. With a little convincing, he radioed other officers and we were given special permission to pass through.

Those Guys Need a Car!

2009-07-24T08:59:00.002-04:00

The much anticipated portage finally arrived and, as we started walking towards Niagara Falls, we laughed nervously about the 26 kilometer portage ahead. “What were we thinking when we signed up for this?” I wondered out loud. To be perfectly honest, we had never been on a portage longer than two kilometers and up until this point we avoided them like the plague. Even if it meant swimming through the frigid spring waters on a previous French River canoe trip, we felt that anything was better than the dreaded “P” word. Fortunately for us, portaging technology has advanced since the fur trade and we were well equipped with a C-Tug canoe trolley that proved invaluable for the next 26 kilometers.
We opted to take the scenic route around Niagara Falls by pulling our canoe through the Niagara Recreational Trail instead of the following the historic route on Portage Road. As we approached the falls, people looked at us suspiciously and we were soon approached by the Niagara Park Police. Two well-dressed officers stepped out of their vehicles and after discovering that we had no ambition to canoe over the falls told us that they had received several calls about us that morning. They were very helpful and told us to call them if we needed any assistance.
At table rock, we stopped at the brink of the falls to meet Ray and John from the Niagara Falls Review. I asked them if they had heard of anyone portaging the falls in recent years. They chuckled and told us with certainty that we were the first ones to portage this route since the early explorers. We continued pulling the canoe through the thick Monday morning crowds. As we made our way through the tourists, we couldn’t help but laugh when one person commented, “Those guys need a car!”
John, one of the policemen, arranged for us to stop at the Whitewater Walk which is where the river is at its narrowest point. We travelled down an elevator to see the incredible class six rapids at the bottom which reminded us of why we have to portage such a long way. After lunch, Geoff Elliot, Dave Patterson and Jon’s father, Chris Pratt, came to help make the portage more manageable. We took turns pulling the canoe and, in the end, I don’t know how we could have completed it without them. To celebrate the long day, wine tasting and dinner followed at Peller Estates.

Historic Portage Route

2009-07-07T16:30:00.001-04:00

Hmmm... a two kilometre portage across the base of Long Point or a seventy kilometre paddle around the tip. Which would you choose? After waking up to throbbing wrists at 5:30 in the morning, the portage sounded a lot better. Besides, it was used for centuries by First Nations people and early European explorers, in order to evade the lengthy paddle and often treacherous waters around Long Point, making it historically significant. Jon, on the other hand, wasn’t convinced. “Come on, it’ll be fun!” “Aren’t you sore?” I asked in an attempt to save my wrists from paddling an extra 70 kilometers. He passed me the pill bottle while swallowing two pain killers himself. “The lake is too calm to pass up this opportunity. Let’s get going!” Whether it was because the medicine started to kick in or that the lake was as flat as glass, my initial reluctance subsided and we were soon paddling past the beautiful fine sand beaches of the UNESCO Long Point Biosphere Reserve.
It was indeed a long point. Each time we approached what we thought was the tip of Long Point, another appeared. It continued like this for awhile until at last we saw the Long Point Lighthouse. We were greeted by employees of the Long Point Bird Observatory where we were given the opportunity to visit nesting boxes of tree swallows. Sarah, one of the ornithology enthusiasts of the point, allowed us to hold the baby tree swallows. As I cupped them in both hands, a big grin appeared on my face. They were so cute. As Jon captured the moment on camera, he couldn’t help but add, “And you wanted to do the portage.”

Naked White-Caps

2009-07-07T16:27:00.000-04:00

At one time, I regarded Lake Superior as the most dangerous of all the Great Lakes. Its ability to generate terrifying storms is legendary, especially when we remember the sinking of the Edmund Fitzgerald – the largest inland freighter of its time. On a map, Lake Erie appears much smaller than its sister lakes to the North, making it appear less temperamental. But according to mariners, it is the most dangerous. It’s relatively shallow depths, allow waves to develop faster, steeper and closer together making navigation difficult and sometimes, deadly. According to Wayne Grady, in his book, The Great Lakes – the natural history of a changing region, the area between Long Point, Ontario and Erie, Pennsylvania contains almost four times more shipwrecks than the Bermuda Triangle.
One mild-mannered afternoon, as we thought nothing could break the calm we were experiencing, we learned the true power of Lake Erie. Within a few minutes of checking our map and discovering that our next campsite was only eight kilometres away, the winds on Lake Erie suddenly shifted to the south causing the calm lake to develop white-caps within seconds. The waves quickly built in intensity forcing us to paddle further away from the clay-cliffs that lined the coastline. It took us almost an hour of paddling before we were within reach of a suitable landing spot. We were so far from shore that the people who were on the beach and playing in the surf appeared as small dots. As we approached the beach, I was too busy worrying about the next oncoming wave to notice something different about the beach dwellers. Jon, being the more observant, quickly realized that the beach we were about to land on was....A Nude Beach!

A Warm Welcome!

2009-07-07T16:23:00.002-04:00

It felt like summer had finally arrived as we rounded the bend onto Lake Erie. Our warmest welcome however didn’t come from the weather; it came from the friendly people we met along our journey. Our first night was spent camped out at Bob and Tracey’s house. Around a large pizza box, we shared stories about canoeing and the next day they joined us, being the first ones to do so by canoe, all the way to Kingsville. It was a nice change to have company along for the ride. Only a day later, I sustained a back strain and Mike, the owner of Pelee Wings, a nature and paddlesports store near Point Pelee, was an incredible help in getting us back on the water. He allowed us to camp on his property for the recovery period, lent us his vehicle for numerous chiropractic appointments and taught us about the amazing history of the region. We also had a nice visit from Jon’s parents and brother who brought us our food drop and packed a wonderful picnic dinner that we shared on the beach. Once well enough, we accepted an invitation from Holiday Harbour, a campground at the base of Point Pelee, to stay for the night. We were greeted and made a wonderful dinner by Grant and his wife Diane, both seasonal campers and avid paddlers at Holiday Harbour. Laura, the manager of this beautiful property, took us around to meet people who were interested in our journey and the next morning we felt privileged to have a crowd wish us well as we paddled away. That same day, about 20 kilometers further down the coastline, we were surprised to see a sign on a dock that read, “Freshwater Dreams Welcome – come in for refreshments.” Who could pass up such a friendly invitation? We met the Gillard’s, a canoeing family, who shared paddling stories, snacks and gave us a book to read along our journey. A few days later, while looking for a place to camp, we stumbled upon a marina in Port Stanley. Dave, the owner and an experienced sailor, let us tie up our canoe to the dock for the night. Because the town has a no camping bylaw, Dave lent us his house boat to sleep in for the night which was a nice change from our tent.
The kindness that we have experienced while canoeing the coastline of Lake Erie will remain with us forever. We were hesitant about paddling in more developed and populated areas but have found comfort in knowing that there are helpful people who have made this journey possible and truly enjoyable.

Just a Short Break

2009-07-01T09:44:00.002-04:00

After 45 days and almost 1000km of paddling from Tobermory to Port Dover we have decided to take a little break. It was time for us to let our bodies recover and let our minds relax from the rigors of expedition life. This is also a time for us to sort out some issues we were having with some of our equipment and to prepare for the next leg of the journey on Lake Ontario. We are planning on being back on the shore of Lake Erie next week and will make our way to the Niagara River. Please watch for us as we complete the Niagara Falls Portage in the next while! Soon we will be on Lake Ontario and heading towards Kingston. Thanks for following the journey. We will be on the water soon after this short break.

CBC Radio One Interview

2009-06-15T09:27:00.004-04:00

Tomorrow, Tuesday, June 16 @ 12:30 pm Jonathan and Stephanie will be appearing on CBC Radio One, Ontario Today, with Rita Celli to discuss their adventures on the Great Lakes. Please listen in. Thank you for your continued support.

Too Many Perogies for You

2009-06-12T22:23:00.005-04:00

We spent the night in Windsor at our friends Bob and Magda's house. There they treated us to a perogie feast, hot showers, wonderful conversation and a comfortable bed for the night. After sleeping in the tent for the past month, I couldn't help but feel like I was floating on a cloud as I dozed off to sleep.

The next morning, as we started our journey toward the Detroit River, we heard a loud crack from the stern of the canoe with a troubling announcement from Jon, "I think my seat is broken again." I couldn't help but laugh teasing, "You ate too many perogies last night!" We examined the boat and found that the same seat bracket that broke earlier in the trip, which was repaired at Sauble Beach on Lake Huron, needed to be fixed again. We strung a loop of webbing around the canoe and through the seat to hold it into place until further work could be done.

As we paddled downstream, we were surprised at the number of people waving at us from the shore. One man persistently motioned us in, telling us that he read about our journey in the Windsor Star newspaper. His name was Terry and he was a member of the Essex County Canoe and Kayak Club. As we spoke to him, he was actively on his cell phone recruiting people for a barbecue further downstream. We were to meet a group of paddlers at Camp Swampy, where we would be able to set up our tent for the night at Don and Marlene's property, and be able to repair our boat with the expertise of Gilles, one of the most amazing skin-on frame boat builders that we have ever had the chance to meet.

The beauty of the Detroit River surprised us as we paddled further downstream near Fighting Island. While canoeing with several members of the club, Don enthusiastically told us about the success story of the region. The reclamation of industrial dumping grounds, the return of fish like the sturgeon and whitefish as well as seeing a young bald eagle in its nest, were all signs that the river is much healthier.

At the camp, Gilles repaired Jon's seat with a very heavy duty bracket that even a large plate of perogies couldn't wear through. We happily enjoyed sharing canoeing stories as we feasted on a great many dishes free from the worry of breaking the canoe seat yet again.

A Pretty Great Lake

2009-06-10T09:44:00.010-04:00

Nestled in between the St. Clair River and the Detroit River is a comparatively smaller lake. Named by French explorers in the late 1600's, Lake St. Clair has never been granted the same "Great Lake" status as the other five. Locals from the region, laugh as they say, "It's not a Great Lake, but a pretty Good Lake!"

From a bird's eye view, Lake St. Clair looks heart shaped and acts as a vital organ protecting the overall health of the Great Lakes ecosystem. The remaining wetlands of the northern shore act as important filters for the water flowing downstream. From our canoe, we could see the lake was teaming with fish as we watched dozens jump out of the water in front of our canoe. Sitting next to the lake one night, we made friends with a local fisherman who surprised us by catching the largest Gar Pike we had ever seen.

Before paddling Lake St. Clair, Jon and I assumed that the lake wouldn't be much of a challenge. After all, it isn't even a "Great Lake." One morning, as waves crashed over our canoe, we quickly realized that Lake St. Clair should be treated with as much respect and caution as any other Great Lake. That day we learned that the lake you don't respect is the one that will teach you to respect it. Fortunate to have found a safe harbour at Belle River Marina, we spent the entire windbound day exploring the area by bicycles which the friendly staff at the marina lent to us. The marina also provided us with a place to pitch our tent and we felt quite safe knowing that their security guard, Fletcher, was looking after the property throughout the night. We were actually happy to be windbound because it allowed us the opportunity to learn about a truly "Great" lake instead of just "a pretty good one."

Gentle Giants

2009-06-10T09:26:00.002-04:00

Our first night on the St. Clair River was spent docked at Sarnia Bay Marina. The employees welcomed us in our little canoe and couldn't believe how far we had managed to paddle. The further we travel, the more we enjoy watching people's jaw dropping expressions when we tell them where we started our journey.
As I looked downstream from the marina, towards the industrial heartland of Sarnia, I couldn't help but feel apprehensive about the amount of ship traffic we were going to encounter. Our experience from previous summers has taught us to avoid paddling close to large freighters. The steep walls of the ship allow waves to reflect off of them producing large and confused seas. At this point, we had only paddled next to ships that were docked and I had no idea how we would manage to paddle with moving freighters.
The following day, we were surprised at the gentle wake generated by the passing ships and after having a large 1000 footer pass by our canoe we aptly named the freighters - "The Gentle Giants." As the day wore on, I even mustered up the courage to touch the bow of one of the freighters. It was docked of course.

Farewell Lake Huron!

2009-06-03T17:34:00.003-04:00

Our last night of camping on Lake Huron was spent in Paradise Valley Campground. After periods of rain and cold winds, we enjoyed unwinding in their whirlpool and upgraded to a wooden cabin for the night to dry out our clothes and equipment. We felt happy to be completing the lake with the longest coastline of all the Canadian Great Lakes but a little sad that we were leaving its shores.

The next morning, the winds were fairly calm and we headed for Sarnia and the headwaters of the St. Clair River. As we paddled toward the Bluewater Bridge, we could see some concerned faces watching us head toward the swift current under the bridge. Although most motorized boats don't slow down for our canoe, one small boat containing eight passengers slowed to almost a halt just as we were passing through the current. After reading the sign on our canoe, 'Great Lakes Expedition', the group started to clap and cheer us on under the bridge. Wow, their gesture made us feel like we had crossed some imaginary finish line.

The Black Mask

2009-06-03T17:11:00.005-04:00

In our first two summers of paddling the Great Lakes, we had very few problems with animals trying to get into our food barrels. We never had to hang our food barrels in trees and would often leave them in the canoe far away from the tent. The odd squirrel or seagull would beg us for little bits of trail mix but both these animals couldn't open our food caches. This year, while paddling into more populated areas, we have been surprised to encounter one cute animal that has, with their tiny fingers, opened the latch of our canoe barrels. While dozing off to sleep one night at Point Farms Provincial Park, we heard a loud bang as one of our barrels rolled off the picnic table onto the ground. We stumbled out of the tent and to find that a large raccoon had managed to open the latch but was struggling to get the lid off. Knowing that we would get little sleep if we left them there, we hung our barrels for the first time in 135 nights of camping.

The Joy of Being in the Bow

2009-06-01T19:56:00.004-04:00

On our last windbound day at Sauble Beach we were fortunate to have our friends Dave and Jessie take us to their home in Owen Sound. It was nice to have a change of scenery, great company and lots of delicious food.

After being windbound for four days, we were very anxious to get back onto the water. The wind had subsided, and although we could see still breaking waves crashing onto the beach, we didn't think they would be a problem. As we started to paddle through the surf zone, I quickly realised we were wrong as a large wave hit me with full force breaking over the top of my head. I could feel the power of the wave against my body as I tightly gripped onto my paddle. Before I could compose myself, another crashed into my face burying me again. As I came out of a third wave absolutely soaked, I noticed that we were safely out of the surf zone. Oh, the joy of being in the bow! Jon, meanwhile, kept dry in the stern. Our canoe had taken on a fair quantity of water so I readily began pumping out the water to help keep us afloat. Jon dumped out the snack bucket and used it as a bailer which left granola bars floating all over. I thought the worst was over when I heard from the stern of the canoe, "I'm seasick! Can we go back to shore?"

If it's not one thing, it's another...

2009-05-20T15:37:00.005-04:00

The wind finally calmed and we enjoyed paddling in the swell - a left over reminder of the storm. We paddled to Lyal Island, which is the largest island along this portion of the coast, and we were impressed by the tiny and intricate flowers growing amongst the rocks. Across the water, we could see knife island's lighthouse, a place we would like to visit later, but for the moment, while the winds were light, we needed to paddle further. As we crossed over from Lyal Island, about a kilometer from shore, we heard a loud and sudden "POP" from the stern of the canoe. At that moment, I hoped we weren't sinking. Jon knowing full well, as his seat was listing to the port side, announced in a disappointed tone, "I think my seat is broken." I couldn't help but laugh and was a little relieved to know that I wasn't the one who broke the seat. When we brought our canoe to shore, we assessed the damage. The L-bracket that holds the seat in place snapped into two pieces. While my first reaction was to bring out the duct tape, Jon was a little more creative and rigged up a webbing loop that went around the canoe to hold the seat in place. Luckily, in only a few short days, our friends at Adventure Guide pulled through and the Furey family came bearing power tools and parts for the boat repair in Sauble Beach. The canoe is now better and ready for the next calm day.

Windbound

2009-05-20T15:27:00.003-04:00

A wise mentor of mine once commented, "It is better to be on the shore wishing you were on the water, than being on the water wishing you were on shore." This advice has been of tremendous benefit to us as we have watched, in jaw-dropping suspense, gale force winds drag our partially loaded canoe across the jagged limestone beach and three meter waves send frigid four degree spray into our faces. In our first week, we were windbound more days than all of our combined windbound days from last summer and this week isn't looking any better. Although we had anticipated being further down the coastline by now, we realize this is no time to take chances especially when the water temperature still hovers just above freezing. So for now, we are enjoying a little rest and lots of photography but still wishing we were on the water.

The First Day

2009-05-13T18:15:00.002-04:00

Before canoeing away from the main dock in Tobermory, we decided that the best way to welcome in a new year of paddling and another two and a half months of dehydrated meals was to sink our teeth into some desserts from a local bakery. Our friend Mike Allen, who was our send off committee, photographer and driver, all rolled into one, watched us devour the desserts before taking our vehicle back home. Thank you Mike. It was nice to be back on the water as gentle waves welcomed us. That first night, however, wasn't so welcoming. The temperature dropped rapidly and by morning our canoe was covered in frost. Hoping for warmer nights - Steph and Jon

Time to Paddle

2009-05-11T06:42:00.003-04:00

After a full week of packing food and equipment as well as making sure last minute details are in place, Jon and I are finally ready to dip our paddles into the Great Lakes once again! This year we are heading south from Tobermory, on Lake Huron and hoping to reach Kingston on Lake Ontario – 1,500 kilometers away. Without a doubt, this year will be different from the last two. We will be canoeing through the more urban and industrial coastline of the Great Lakes and we will be completing the largest portage of our lives – 25 kilometers around Niagara Falls! Although we will miss the quiet and secluded campsites of the northern lakes, I’m sure we will take pleasure in the warmer climate of the south and the amenities we will have at established campsites – showers, flush toilets and better cell phone coverage to keep you updated on this blog. Please join us in this adventure!

New Website - New Season

2009-04-14T10:53:00.002-04:00

The new website is up and running. Thanks Andrew Harris for all your help and continued support with hosting the site. There is now just about 3 weeks to go until we start back on the water for another exciting summer of paddling on the Great Lakes. We are very much looking forward to starting again from Tobermory, a spot that has been very central to our entire experience. The amount of support that we have been receiving has been astonishing. Thank you to all our sponsors who are helping us get ready for this season and all the wonderful people who have kindly offered us spots to stay along some of the most populated coastline sections. We will be keeping you posted as often as possible as we prepare to get on the water the first week of May and throughout the summer as we paddle the shoreline of Southern Ontario. Please keep checking back for more updates and photographs as the summer progresses.

Thanks so much for checking in.

Website Under Construction

2008-12-01T09:22:00.002-05:00

Throughout the time that our website is under construction most of the content is still available. Please take the time to read stories from our first two summers here in our blog, check out photographs in our gallery and discover our routes of 2007, 2008, and what is in the works for 2009! Our website will be back up and running shortly. Thank you for your patience and continued support of our journey.

Holy Cow!

2008-08-07T09:22:00.002-04:00

We were impressed by the abundance of wildlife on Manitoulin Island and became accustomed to daily sightings of bald eagles and sandhill cranes. We observed numerous other mammals such as snowshoe hares, mink, deer and skunk. One morning, while loading our canoe, Jon shouted, “Get out of the water!” Unbeknownst to me, a snake was swimming right next to my foot. Running towards shore, I noticed that the snake had a tight grasp around the back of a fish. The fish put up a big fight and the snake was obviously struggling for his breakfast. We watched in awe as the battle between the snake and the fish continued. It was a close one. In the end, the snake swallowed the fish looking quite satisfied with the catch.
No animal could have prepared us for the shock we were about to experience when we noticed a herd of cows grazing at the waters edge. I asked Jon to paddle us closer while I take out the video camera. While filming, I noticed that one cow was strikingly different from the rest. As it turns out, it wasn’t a cow at all but a large black bull. Protective of the females, he eyed our red canoe. Shutting off the camera, I noticed that he was slowly advancing in our direction. We tried to paddle away but the strong winds and waves had beached us on some rocks. Pushing ourselves off with our paddles, we finally freed the canoe and paddled as fast as we could out of sight. Whew! Wiping the sweat from our foreheads, we were thankful to be paddlers instead of bull fighters.

The Missing Crew Member

2008-08-07T09:02:00.002-04:00

As we left Little Current, the wind was strong and luckily in our favor. We waived goodbye to my dad and the Fowler-Taylor family from Waterloo who cheered us on from the public dock. We were pushed swiftly past the swing bridge happy to be back on the water but saddened by our missing crew member, Tess. A few nights before departure, she was experiencing a terrible ear infection that demanded vet attention and an appointment could only be scheduled for later in the week. After discovering poison ivy at every campsite the first four nights, we were relieved that she stayed with her Grandma and Grandpa in Sudbury.

A Childhood Dream

2008-07-11T14:53:00.002-04:00

After a much needed rest, picking up our vehicle in Thunder Bay, drying out our equipment, packing our food, and planning our route, ten days have rolled by without even a paddle stroke. As preparations for Manitoulin Island are nearing completion, we are becoming increasingly excited to get back out on the water and explore the coastline of the largest freshwater island in the world.
As a young teenager, I can remember pouring over a map of Manitoulin Island with my dad dreaming about a day we would circumnavigate its shores in our little red canoe. After calculating the distance, we decided it would take too long and opted for a family roadtrip out to the east coast instead. Since then, I have kept the dream alive and, as the weekend approaches, Jon, Tess (our dog) and I, are anxiously awaiting the wonderful experiences we will have on the island "where spirits come to play."

Happy Canada Day!

2008-07-01T14:07:00.000-04:00

What a great day to finalize our journey along the Canadian shores of Lake Superior! We arrived just as our hot chocolate rations ran out, which was kindly replenished in Pukaskwa National Park by the campsite host and hostess, Mary and John, and before the threatening rumble of distance storms came any closer. It was a delight to be with friends at Naturally Superior Adventures in Wawa and watch the brilliant display of fireworks over the lake.
We feel so privileged to have paddled beside some of the most spectacular, remote, and ancient freshwater coastlines in the world. After seeing them at such an up close and unique perspective, we can assure you that we should feel very proud, as a nation, of our natural inheritance. Few countries in the world are as fortunate to be the keepers of the largest chain of freshwater lakes on the planet. As Canadians, it is our duty to protect these inland seas for future generations; working cooperatively with our American neighbours to ensure that we continue to keep them great.

Hitchhikers

2008-06-27T11:39:00.000-04:00

After the summer solstice, the weather warmed enough to allow thick swarms of mosquitoes and black flies to enshroud our campsites. Armed with bug jackets, one of the top ten greatest human inventions, we survived their battalions with few bitten wounds. Often times, they were so persistent that we would resort to eating our meals inside these impenetrable jackets, although several would always sneak their way through a 2-inch tear at the side of my jacket. Duct tape solved that problem quickly. As we paddled away from the shore, swarms of them would follow us out onto the lake and travel with us for kilometers. We aptly named these pernicious creatures “the hitchhikers.” Luckily for me, they were quite fond of my husband leaving me to canoe in peace. Just a reminder to others, when choosing a paddling partner, make sure they attract the bugs more than you.

Fog Magic

2008-06-26T15:55:00.001-04:00

Many days were spent canoeing through thick fog banks that made it hard to see the shoreline beside us and impossible to visualize what lay ahead. Most often, we hugged the coastline weaving ourselves around the shoreline but we were sometimes compelled to cross at the mouth of deep bays to further our progress which gave us a good chance to hone our navigational skills. We used a techniques called dead reckoning to help us find our way across through the fog, which when completely surrounded by it and with no land in sight, made us question how the term 'dead reckoning' came to be.
The fog seemed to us to be a powerful curtain that enjoys playing tricks on the minds of those with active imaginations. Everything seems dream-like and mystical as if we could be transported back into an ancient place where anything was possible. While rounding a cape through the fog, three black heads popped-up beside our canoe making a very distinct hissing noise. Immediately, I jumped back thinking that three-headed sea serpents do truly exist. Silly me. Coming out of the fog-like trance, I quickly realized that it was a family of three otters trying to protect their territory. We canoed away from the otters thankful that we didn't have to ward off any sea serpents with our paddles.

Beach Combing Mystery

2008-06-19T15:38:00.002-04:00

The myriad of brightly coloured rocks found on Lake Superior's cobblestone beaches keep us entertained at each campsite. Beach combing for the perfect rock has become our evening ritual. In our search, we've discovered sparkling agates, pink daisystones and, to our surprise, small white coloured plastic pellets known as nurdles. For about one hundred kilometers of coastline, we found hundreds of thousands of these noxious plastic pieces scattered across beaches along the north shore. Used in the plastic manufacturing industry, nurdles are known to wreck havoc on marine life since they are often mistaken for food. Concerned, we are left puzzled in our attempts to find out how these nurdles ended up in the water. Could it have been in a train derailment or perhaps a shipping mishap? Maybe we will never know.

Monsoon Season

2008-06-14T22:00:00.002-04:00

The weather along the northern shore has been anything but hospitable. Cold, windy and wet are three words that come to mind when trying to describe the experience. Rain has been a typical everyday occurrence so much so that you might as well call it monsoon season on Lake Superior. Fortunately the awe inspiring scenery keeps our spirits lifted and encourages us to push forward to see what new wonders lie beyond the next headland. Another delight along this coastline is a section popularly known as "The Sauna Tour". Several islands in the region contain saunas that are available for boaters and paddlers to use. Our warmed bodies really appreciated the effort it took in establishing these havens along the coast. Now, as we paddle towards the summer solstice, we are hoping for warmer weather.

Golden Pastries at Silver Islet

2008-06-08T19:48:00.002-04:00

Once one of the richest silver mines in Canada, the town of Silver Islet is now home to a pastry-lovers gold mine. Located on the remote northern shore of Lake Superior, we knew that this would be our last bit of civilization for sometime. We pulled our canoe up on the government beach and entered the town's general store. The smell of freshly baked pastries called to us from the tea room at the back of the building. The owners and operators of the store, the Saxburg family, welcomed us with a hot pot of tea and freshly baked cinnamon buns. They helped us with our equipment dilemma and charged our camera batteries since our solar panel charging unit wasn't receiving power from continually overcast skies. While we passed the time, we noticed a sign in the tea room which read "Come in as strangers, leave as family." No other saying could have depicted our visit any better. It wasn't a problem for us to wait all afternoon for the batteries to charge - "Another piece of apple pie please?!"

What's in a Name...

2008-06-05T19:35:00.002-04:00

Canoeing past the city of Thunder Bay was a unique experience. Up until this point, we hadn't paddled through many large ports so we were happy to have a calm day to canoe the fourty-five kilometer stretch to Sleeping Giant Provincial Park. Although we passed some towering structures such as the power generating station and numerous grain elevators, the city itself looked so small compared to the wilderness that surrounded it. While tucked away in our tent on Caribou Island, a series of thunderstorms awoke us from our much-needed sleep. The loud crackling bolts reverberated off the cliffs reinforcing the appropriateness of the bay's name.

Three Degrees Celsius

2008-06-04T19:59:00.003-04:00

Spectacular cliffs and bountiful wildlife highlights the coastline from Pigeon River to Thunder Bay. We were delighted to have spotted two Peregrine Falcon nests perched along towering cliffs - a sign that their populations are hopefully rebounding. This year, we purposely departed on our expedition in June instead of May thinking that it might be warmer. Unfortunately, summer on the northern shore of Lake Superior doesn't seem to be here yet. The temperature of the lake is three degrees Celsius and it seems the shoreline isn't much warmer. Yesterday, while paddling along, we spotted a huge slab of ice hanging from the rocky shore. We were mentally prepared for summer, good thing we packed for winter! Yeah for down jackets, sleeping bags and booties! We sure hope it warms up soon.

Departure Day!

2008-06-02T08:34:00.003-04:00

The weather is looking good for our departure today - sunny and warm with a slight breeze. This week, in Thunder Bay, we experienced everything from snow to plus 27 degrees Celsius in less than two days. Today, we will be departing from the Pigeon River which is where the Canadian and American borders meet on Lake Superior. Our friend Ken will be driving us and all of our equipment to the closest point we can get to the water. From there, we will portage our gear in - a nice reminder of why we paddle on the Great Lakes! We have added a new feature to our website where you can track our progress throughout the summer. Please follow the link on the left hand side of this page to see our location on Google maps.

Planning and Preparations

2008-05-20T11:37:00.002-04:00

The long winter is over and now we are well on our way to completing our plans and preparations for the new paddling season. As we pour over maps and sort through food we are spending time reminiscing about our experiences of last summer and dreaming about the adventures to come. After last summer, our plans have developed and changed, reflecting the ever changing nature expedition paddling and the challenges the Great Lakes provide. This summer we will be focusing on completing the north shore of Lake Superior from Pigeon River to Wawa, a complete tour of Manitoulin Island and the Lake Huron coast from Tobermory to Sarnia. Our anticipated departure date is set for the end of May in the hopes that Lake Superior will be a little bit warmer. Currently, the water temperature of Superior is 2 degrees Celsius! Making cold weather paddling gear a necessity! We are well prepared on the equipment front thanks to the continued support of our many sponsors (please check our their links through our website). Tess (our dog) will be visiting family in Sudbury as we paddle the Lake Superior portion. She is looking forward to joining us in the nicer weather later this summer. Please continue to check back for journal entries and photographs throughout the summer.

Ask and Thou Shall Receive

2007-08-14T15:31:00.000-04:00

It seems we were wind bound in Pukaskwa National Park more days than we paddled. Moderate to strong winds were forecasted on a daily basis. Our soon to be permanent residence was at the mouth of the North Swallow River. It was a nice place to be wind bound. The campsite had an outhouse (a luxury for us), a small waterfall only a short hike from the campsite and a beautiful fine white sand beach. It was the campsite that marked the southern tip of the coastal hiking trail so a boat carrying hikers would come to shore every couple of days.
After two wind bound days and no outside human contact of any kind, I longed for some company. Jon, who could be considered more introverted loved the solitude. I, on the other hand, am an extrovert and was slowly going a little crazy. My partial insanity could also be blamed due to the lack of chocolate confection on the expedition. I craved to sink my teeth into a chocolate bar! We kept ourselves busy with photography, hiking, swimming and writing. My cravings for company and chocolate were satisfied one glorious evening when we spotted the aluminum boat off in the horizon disappearing into the trough of the waves as they came into the beach. Hikers walked off the boat and we spent the evening sharing a campfire with them. As we watched the sunset we were surprised to see two kayakers appear in the distance. They came ashore and once they had set up camp came to join us by the fire. To my utmost delight, one of the kayakers was carrying with him three x-large chocolate bars. Beautiful scenery, good company and yummy chocolate - a perfect combination.

History is for the Pits!

2007-08-12T13:48:00.000-04:00

After spending a few rest days at Naturally Superior Adventures, Jon and I paddled into one of the most remote sections of our journey this year - Pukaskwa National Park. Pink and grey hills line the coastline intermittent periodically by fine sand and cobble stone beaches. Due to the topography of the area, highway 17 was built around this section of the shoreline so the only way to see it is by hiking, paddling or boating. Our camera beckoned us to take pictures around ever corner. In every direction, the views were stunning. Pukaskwa’s trance was upon us. Our pace slowed and we enjoyed every moment. We swam under waterfalls, hiked up rolling hills and searched the park for one of its greatest mysteries - Pukaskwa pits.
Generally found on the highest terrace of beaches, Pukaskwa pits are depressions in the cobblestone that are usually of a round or oblong shape. Normally a couple meters across by a meter deep, these pits can also be as large as the foundation of a building. Constructed by the Ojibway people, the oldest of the pits are thought to be 10,000 years old with the most recent being 500 years old. Although they are not strictly found within the boundaries of Pukaskwa National Park, the highest concentration of these historical mysteries are located here. The curiosity surrounding Pukaskwa pits remains in their intended use. Were they used to catch fish, provide shelter, or spiritual guidance during vision quests? No one knows.

A Thief in Lake Superior Provincial Park!

2007-08-06T10:50:00.000-04:00

At the southern tip of Lake Superior Provincial Park in the Agawa Bay Campgroud, the park attendant warned us about bear sightings around the park, especially around Rhyolite Cove. Jonathan and I decided to stay far away from this tent site to avoid any confrontations. During our visit, we had a sort of confrontation with a particular animal. No, it wasn't with a bear but with a well-fed chipmunk. At one of our favorite campsites on the Bald Head River, this chipmunk would not leave us alone. If I took out our pots for cooking, the chipmunk was right by my side. As we cooked, one of us would have to hold onto our food and make sure it never touched the ground. One morning, while we were busy taking pictures, we accidentally left our granola bars on the top of our food barrels. While our backs were turned the other way, the eager chipmunk jumped onto our food barrels taking one of the granola bars. By the time we had turned around, it was too late. The package had been opened and the little thief was munching away. Being a good sport, he let us take his picture before we reclaimed our stolen goods.
The coastline through the park was absolutely spectacular. Large rugged cliffs and beaches dot the shoreline. We have just reached the Naturally Superior Adventures on the Michipicoten River in Wawa, Ontario where we left another food drop. It was nice to spend the day here - great food, friends, paddling and scenery.

Paddling through the Recreational Sault Locks

2007-08-05T20:03:00.000-04:00

It was interesting to paddle into Sault Ste. Marie because it will be one of the largest ports that we will experience on this leg of the journey. It was nice to be in Sault Ste. Marie because we lived here while we were students at Sault College in the Parks and Outdoor Recreation program. This time, we stayed with our friends, Dave and Jen, and picked up another package of dehydrated food which we sent ahead to their house.
The following morning we entered the Sault Canal National Historic Park recreational locks. It was an incredible experience. We paddled through large gates which were closed behind us. The attendant told us to hold onto large ropes and to make sure keep our boat away from the edge of the locks. In less than 15 minutes the water rose to meet Lake Superior. As the gates opened, both Jon and I were excited and, at the same time, hesitant to paddle the next section of our journey. Our excitement came from the stunning and remote scenery that lay ahead and our hesitation stemmed from the tremendous respect we have for Lake Superior - the largest fresh water lake in the world.

Modern-Day Pterodactyls

2007-08-05T19:39:00.000-04:00

One of our food re-supply locations was at the North Channel Yacht Club in Spragge, Ontario. We enjoyed a comfortable bed on my dad's sailboat and the luxury of a hot shower at the comfort station. The following afternoon, my parents and grandma came with a box of dehydrated food and a selection of mouth-watering dishes that we can only dream about on trip. It was sad to see our dog, Tess, leave with them but we knew that it was the best decision for her. She prefers her lazy boy chair at my parents place than the blue foam pad at the bottom of our canoe.
It took us four days to paddle to Sault Ste. Marie averaging a distance of 40 to 50 kilometers per day. We were surprised at the amount of bird life that we encountered. Bald eagles, golden eagles, osprey and turkey vultures were spotted almost on a daily basis. Around the Mississagi River Delta, we noticed a group of our favorite birds - Sandhill Cranes. Jon and I call these birds Modern-day Pterodactyls because they remind us of ancient creatures that would have roamed the earth millions of years ago. The way they fly and their calls seem like no other birds that we have encountered on the northern shore of the Great Lakes.

Tessie's Trip Journal (A Dog's Perspective)

2007-07-26T10:15:00.000-04:00

My parents are two humans who love to canoe and camp. They have taken me on many trips, and this time we are on the North Channel of Lake Huron. I enjoy camping, however, the canoeing is not always to my liking because I'm not particularly fond of the water. My parents keep me safe by putting on my Salus doggie PFD (Personal Floatation Device) which I'm happy to wear. One day the waves were a little too rough for my little stomach and when we got to shore I threw up. My mom and dad try their best to make my time in the canoe as comfortable as possible. They put down a nice foam pad for me to sit on and create a little space for me in the canoe but it's not up to my usual standards of comfort at home - a lazy boy chair. The tent, on the other hand, is something I look forward to all day long. When I smell the tent bag being pulled out from where it is stowed in the canoe, I wag my tail and watch anxiously as it's being set up. I love being on shore because there are so many things to play with. So far I have chased cormorants, mallards, squirrels and chipmunks. The only animal I wasn't allowed to chase was a porcupine - I didn't understand why. I have also become the official dishwasher on trip - my favourite job. I've had the pleasure of tasting bits of leftover pasta, pad thai, soups and puddings. We have just landed at the North Channel Yacht Club where I will be heading back with my grandparents to go on a summer vacation in Sudbury. I've enjoyed paddling out here, but this puppy is pooched.

A Porcupine is Eating our Canoe!

2007-07-26T07:59:00.000-04:00

It's two-thirty in the morning and Tess, our dog, is walking anxiously around inside the tent. She can hear a rustling outside. Half awake, Jon and I try to calm her down, but to no avail. We try to fall back to sleep when we hear something trampling on the deck of our canoe. With his headlamp on, Jon climbs out of the tent to see what's outside. To his surprise, a big fat porcupine is sitting on the stern of our canoe gnawing at our wooden gunwales and deck plate. From inside the tent, Tess and I could hear a loud clap and Jon shouting, "Stop eating our canoe!" The porcupine abandoned his project and scurried up a tree. We examined our canoe and found there was minimal damage - a few chew marks in the gunwales and spray deck. The rest of the night we dozed in and out of sleep waiting for the return of the porcupine. Luckily he didn't return. We expect he found something better to chew.

Where I Learned to Paddle

2007-07-26T07:49:00.000-04:00

The North Channel of Lake Huron is one of my favourite places to paddle as well as the site where I took my first few canoe strokes. This is where I caught, what I call, the paddling bug - it infected me with my love of canoeing and kayaking. The first boat I learned to paddle was a 36 ft. voyageur canoe. I learned these skills at Camp Manitou, an Anglican Church camp that I attended as a youth, and later as a counselor. We had a chance to stop in at Camp Manitou in the middle of Senior Girls' camp. The girls and the staff were just heading on an outtrip and we had a chance to talk to them about our journeys by canoe. They had so many good questions to ask us, however, the funniest question was, "Do you guys have massive pipes?" We were treated to dinner that evening and I had a good time reminiscing about happy times at camp. We would like to thank Camp Manitou for their warm hospitality and send off.

The Friendly Bay

2007-07-13T10:52:00.000-04:00

The southern stretch of Georgian Bay allowed us the experience of paddling in more developed and populated areas - a new experience for us both. We enjoyed the luxuries that few experience on canoe trips such as a visit to our favorite Swiss restaurant, the Alphorn, and a relaxing night in a soft bed at Balm Beach Resort. We were amazed at the friendliness we experienced along the way. Little treats such as homemade muffins, strawberry jam, cupcakes, cookies, grilled cheese sandwiches, and wine were given to us and helped to add to our dehydrated tripping menu. Many provincial and private park staff along the journey commented, "We’ve never had campers arrive by canoe!" It seemed that traveling by canoe, Canada’s historical mode of transport, was fairly unheard of in this region. We understood why when some nights we had to pull out our tent in quite populated spaces. It was interesting to see the large beaches of Nottawasaga Bay, home to the largest freshwater beach in the world, and to visit the historical Brebeuf Island lighthouse (100+years) where the one of the Great Lakes Coast Guard stations exists.
We are happy to have completed Georgian Bay, a total of 600 kilometers. We are now heading back to Killarney to start our tour of the North Channel and St. Mary's River.

Breaking Fifty

2007-07-08T21:39:00.000-04:00

During the winter, in preparation for our upcoming paddling season, Jonathan and I spent some time pouring over nautical charts and topographic maps. Looking forward to paddling the coastline of Georgian Bay, we stumbled upon a roadblock - the Meaford Tank Range. Indicated on our nautical chart was a seventeen kilometer by two kilometer boating restriction zone. It would be difficult for us to paddle so far from shore for that length of time on such an exposed part of the coast. After contacting the Meaford Tank Range, we were given special permission to pass through the restricted zone due to the nature of our expedition. We were told specifically not to land unless it was a serious emergency because of the possibility of unexploded ordinates lying on the shore. We couldn’t even land to go to the washroom. To add to our distress, the distance between campsites, from Owen Sound to Meaford, was fifty kilometers – a distance we hadn’t yet accomplished in a day. Jon and I chose a calm day to make the trek. The coastline along the Meaford Tank Range was absolutely spectacular with large clay banks spreading themselves into the surrounding water. We surprised ourselves by paddling an average of 6.5 kilometers per hour which helped us get to our campsite earlier than expected. The Meaford Memorial Park was a great place to stay with a large sandy beach and friendly neighbours to share stories with.

Familiar Waters

2007-07-01T14:53:00.000-04:00

To complete Georgain Bay, Jon and I needed to come back to Wiarton (the place I injured my back) and paddle back to Honey Harbour. This part of the journey required much more planning as it is more developed and there are fewer places to camp. In less than two days, we managed to paddle from Wiarton to Owen Sound with a stop at Presqu'ile YMCA Rotary Youth Camp - the summer camp where Jonathan use to be the assistant director. The staff made us feel welcome as we enjoyed sharing dinner and campfire with everyone. We paddled into Owen Sound (Jon's hometown) to celebrate Canada Day! It is very nice to see many familiar faces who have stopped to visit with us.

Killarney's Famous Fish and Chips

2007-07-01T14:45:00.000-04:00

En route to Killarney, we paddled past Phillip Edward Island - one of the larger islands in the region. The vistas in the area were spectacular because the LaCloche Mountain Range appeared in the background. This chain of hills is over 2 billion years old and is composed of pearl-colored quartzite.
The day was relatively calm however, the winds started to pick up in the afternoon. As we rounded the last stretch into Killarney, the winds picked up even more and we were caught in the midst of confused seas. We were tossed around a bit by the reflection waves reverberating off the shoreline. Normally, Jon and I would head into a safe cove or the lee of an island but Killarney's famous fish and chip stand was calling us. My parents and our dog Tess came to share the well deserved feast with us. For now, it's back to Wiarton to complete our final leg of Georgian Bay.

Eggspectations

2007-07-01T14:30:00.000-04:00

Oatmeal seemed like the logical choice for breakfast on a canoe trip - it's light, packable and as grandma would say, "It sticks to your ribs." I like oatmeal but, after eating it for a few weeks, I wasn't stomaching the idea that it was the perfect breakfast food. I tried to make the oatmeal more appetizing by adding dried cranberries, blueberries, mango, raisins, almonds or peanut butter however, it still tasted like the same old oatmeal. What I really wanted for breakfast was eggs. Every morning my thoughts turned to omelet's, eggs Benedict or toad-in-the-hole. It didn't help that we had to paddle through a cluster of islands called the chickens. After paddling 40 kilometers one day, Jon and I stopped for a break at Hen Island. To our surprise and complete irony, one egg, brown in colour, was lying in the water on the sand beside our canoe. I picked up the egg and it appeared roughly the same size as a chicken's egg. We couldn't identify what type of bird could have laid such and egg or how old it was. I wanted to crack it open into a hot sizzling pan but my heart prevented me from doing so. I placed the egg into some low lying bushes and we paddled away. The next morning, to my dismay, we ate oatmeal yet again.

Toilet Paper Flowers

2007-06-28T17:07:00.000-04:00

Since venturing from Parry Sound, Jon and I have been encountering fewer cottages and many more camping spots. One of the most beautiful sites was on an island close to the Naiscoot river. We spent much of our time on the island exploring the intricately swirled geological formations of the rocks. To our dissappointment, this beautiful spot was left in a mess. Broken glass bottles, aluminum cans and plastic jugs were left in the fire pit, numerous branches from trees were cut down and a string of toilet paper flowers were left in a little trench on the island. We were both quite disgusted. Both Jon and I try our best to be low impact campers - we pack out what we've packed in. That means that any garbage, food waste and toilet paper is taken out. Often, if there is no fire ban in effect, Jon and I will burn our toilet paper in a small burning can. As campers, it is important to respect our environment. Take only pictures, leave only footprints.

Too Close for Comfort

2007-06-17T22:40:00.000-04:00

Since our departure from Honey Harbour, Georgian Bay’s scenery has been absolutely stunning. Smooth pink granite islands, tall windswept pines and crystal clear blue water highlights the scene. Georgian Bay is also home to eleven reptiles at risk, including the Eastern Massasauga Rattlesnake - a feature of the bay that I hoped only to observe from afar. One morning, while paddling through a maze of small islands, I spotted, less than 10ft. from the bow of our canoe, what looked like a Massasauga Rattlesnake swimming across the channel. Jon, wanting to capture the reptile on video camera, urged me to paddle closer. Noticing our approach, the snake lifted its head out of the water and turned swimming defensively towards the canoe. With less than a foot between the snake and I, I was left with two options: I could stay calm and push it away with my paddle if need be or panic, scream and jump out of the bow seat into the middle of the canoe. I chose the latter option. The snake, knowing full well that he had the upper hand in the confrontation, turned in the opposite direction towards shore. We watched as the snake climbed out of the water and to our surprise and relief, the snake had no rattle. Jon and I later found out that the snake we observed was the Eastern Foxsnake, also included on Ontario’s list of species at risk. Although unsettling at times, we feel privileged to have these types of close encounters.

Parry Sound - Fries!!!

2007-06-15T11:48:00.000-04:00

We are in Parry Sound today after some of the best paddling weather that we have seen so far. The water has been calm, the wind light and the sun bright! We came into Parry Sound today to get some supplies, drop off some garbage and get a good take-out of sandwiches and fries! Cold drinks are tasting really good today. Thanks to the folks at White Squall for the help sorting out some of our trip glitches. We couldn't do it with out you! Although we have passed some very busy and populated spots between Honey Harbour and Parry Sound, we have been able to find fantastic camping spots that are convenient and have great swimming. The water is still cold, about 10 C but that is still warmer than the 3 C when we started in Tobermory! Stephanie has been taking it easy and her back is feeling better, but it is still a little stiff. We are happy that we made the decision to do this part of the route as she is continuing to return to 100%. There have been lots of good yoga rocks for stretching and laying down. Soon we will be back in full form for the remainder of the summer!

Back on the Water!!!

2007-06-11T17:33:00.000-04:00

After weeks of recovery, Steph is now ready to return to the water. We have had to make many adjustments to our packing and our route to accommodate shorter days and more frequent camping spots. We will be completing the Honey Harbour to Killarney leg of the journey over the next few weeks as we ease back into paddling. The goal is to take it easy so Steph does not re-injure her back! We are looking forward to gliding over the clear waters of Georgian Bay and continue pursuing our Dreams!

Temporarily Out of Order

2007-05-24T13:35:00.000-04:00

The weather was calm around Wiarton, so Jon and I decided that it would be a great chance to try to paddle 40 kilometers to our next designated campsite. Early that morning we started to load our boats and, as I was lifting the last bit of heavy equipment into the canoe, I strained my back. The mid section of my back throbbed with pain - it hurt to move, sit, stand and breath. We tried to paddle, I lasted only about half a kilometer. Tears rolled down my cheeks, not because of the pain, but because I felt I had disappointed everyone - Jon, family, friends, supporters and, worst of all, myself. We decided that it was best to take some time off to heal. My parents brought us back home where I visited the doctor and chiropractor, relaxed in a comfy bed and stretched my aching back muscles. Jon also had some marks on his shoulders from carrying heavy packs, so we decided to cut back some of our food suppliers and carry them in smaller waterproof containers. I’m getting better everyday and we are anxious to dip our paddles back into the waters of Georgian Bay.

Lost Pigeons

2007-05-22T13:34:00.000-04:00

After a few days of cold weather and long stretches of paddling, we welcomed the sight of our friends cottage. Mike and Sue, the owners of Adventure Guide, invited us to spend the night. Sue made homemade chocolate chip cookies and their children, Jonathan and Ben, entertained us with many stories of their own. It was a little taste of luxury - a nice bed, a warm shower and omelettes for breakfast.
That evening we paddled into Cape Crocker Indian Tent and Trailer Park. Cape Crocker, in the late 1800's, was infamous for having hordes of passenger pigeons migrate through the area. Although they could reproduce quickly, the fate of this bird was short lived. By the early 1900's, widespread hunting lead to their disappearance. That night, tucked into my sleeping bag, I thought about how passenger pigeons were taken for granted - a bird so plentiful it was believed that they would never become extinct. My mind also drifted to thoughts of how we, as North Americans, often take freshwater for granted. As I pondered, in the darkness of the night, I hoped that somehow we have learned from the story of the passenger pigeon and that the future of this precious freshwater resource, the Great Lakes, will not fall into the same fate.

Wild Horses

2007-05-20T17:24:00.000-04:00

There are so many things to see along the shoreline of the Bruce Peninsula - the spectacular Niagara Escarpment, eerie shipwrecks, playful waterfowl and, to our surprise, white snow! It’s the middle of May and a few shoreline caves along the escarpment still contain remnants of winter - a testament of the cold temperatures that still prevail on this part of Lake Huron. One morning, dressed in our down jackets and huddled around our VHF radio, the weather announcer said, "water temperature 3°C (37°F), air temperature 4°C (39°F)."
This week, Jon and I have been getting accustomed to the sounds of the night. At 3:30 a.m., Jon woke up after hearing some noise just outside of our tent. I could hear it too. To me, it sounded like horses hooves stomping the ground. "What do you think it is, Steph? Could it be a deer?," Jon questioned. Too tired from the previous day to make any sense of the situation, I responded, "It must be wild horses." To this day, any noises we hear outside of the tent, Jon teases - "Must be wild horses!"

Sometimes Plans Change for the Best

2007-05-15T15:55:00.000-04:00

Last week, we decided to take a few more days to prepare for the expedition. This past weekend, we travelled to Tobermory to do some preliminary filming as well as meet with family (our food drop support crew). The 'Tip-of-the-Bruce' is so beautiful and the water so cold. So cold, that Tess has decided to go on a holiday with her grandparents instead of the canoe trip. She will join us later this summer when the water is warmer. The small delay has only increased our excitement and we are now anxious to get on the water. All ready to go, we will be departing Tobermory on Thursday, May 17th.

Departure Delayed

2007-05-11T23:04:00.000-04:00

The last of our gear arrived today - just in time for the expedition. We could finally experience the joy of canoe Tetris. Our game started off with a 19ft. canoe, two paddlers, a dog and too much gear. To our dismay, we just couldn't fit it all in the finite space between the gunwales. After about two hours, the game quickly became a chore as we paired down extra gear and food. We have had to repack all our food and rethink our food drops. Due to this, and other life circumstances that are beyond our control, our departure, slated for May 12, will be delayed for a few days. It is our goal to be safely on the water as soon as possible.

Website Up and Spray Deck Installed!!!

2007-05-09T22:27:00.000-04:00

Big thanks go out today to all the people that have helped get our website online today. Jeff, Andrew and Brian were key to the design and publication of the site. Thank you all. Another Thanks to Jordan, who helped with the scary task of drilling our new boat to install our new, custom made Northwater Spray Deck. It was a nerve wracking experience, but it looks great! We will test it soon! We are now ready to get on the water.

Last Day of Work - Thank You Adventure Guide!

2007-05-06T22:01:00.000-04:00

Today was our last day of work at Adventure Guide. This weekend was spent at Laurel Creek where the store held the annual 'Paddle Extravaganza'. We had the canoe out for people to see and to spread the word about our expedition (Thanks Mark and 105.3 KOOL FM!). Thank you to everyone that stopped by and talked to us, it is wonderful to know there is excitement and interest in this endeavour. Please follow along as we keep this site updated as often as possible.

Now we have until Friday morning to get all the last minute details together!

Departure Set For May 12, 2007

2007-04-18T13:24:00.000-04:00

With less and less time remaining before our departure from Tobermory on May 12, things are starting to get a little crazy. We finally have all the major pieces of equipment that we need to start this expedition. Now it is a matter of working through all the last minute details in the weeks and days leading up to our first day on the water.